018.コペンハーゲン 05.クリスチャニア
018.Copenhagen 05.Christiania
コペンハーゲンの、ふつうの地区とは少し違う地区の紹介。
Introduce a district that is slightly different from usual districts in Copenhagen.
Christiania starts from here.
空港で手に入れたコペンハーゲンの公式ガイドブックで驚いたのは、地区紹介の中に、エロティッククラブやポルノショップがたくさんありますと書かれた地区があったこと。気負いなく、ふつうに紹介する様に、自由な国だと感じました。
そんなガイドブックから漏れた地区、クリスチャニア。宿泊した民泊のホストの元都市計画局長が、イタリア旅行したときのこと。知り合った旅行者がコペンハーゲンのことを知らなかったのに、クリスチャニアのある街だとわかると、たちまち理解してもらえたとのこと。実は、ラリ系の人の間では有名な場所らしい。元都市計画局長に、ちょっと変わった場所だからと薦められて、行ってみました。
居心地のいい地区、クリスチャンハーブンのすぐ隣の運河沿いに位置し、都心には珍しい、鬱蒼とした樹木に、知らなければ公園と勘違い。そういう豊かな自然が残る場所を不法占拠した地区のようです。
訪れたのは朝６時。その手の人が苦手な時間帯のせいか、すれ違う人も、ほとんどいませんでしたが、それでも、すぐそこのふつうのコペンハーゲンからは、異質な空気。家の立ち方やデザインから感じたのは、自分の世界以外に関心ない人が、勝手に生きている場所。スラムではないが、散らかったものがそのまま放り出された雰囲気。公道なのに、私道か迷う場所が結構ありましたが、公と私の境界のつくり方がどこか違い、人の敷地に無断侵入した気分になります。自分の好き勝手で場所を決める不法占拠だと、こうなるのかもしれません。
束縛されないルーズさは好きですが、ここまで自分の世界に浸っていると、ちょっと遠く感じました。
What surprised me in the official Copenhagen guidebook, which I got at the airport, was that it introduced a district with many erotic clubs and adult shops. I felt Denmark was a free country that introduced it usually without being overbearing.
Christiania is a district that omits out of the guidebook. When the former head of the city planning department, the host of Airbnb I stayed at, traveled to Italy, she met a traveler there. He didn't know about Copenhagen. But, after he knew that Christiania was in Copenhagen, he understood Copenhagen immediately. It seems to be a famous place among intoxicated people. A former head of the city planning department recommended me to visit there as it was a strange place. So I went there.
It is located along the canal next to Christianhavn, a cozy district. The dense trees, which are rare downtown, make mistake for a park if visitors don't know about it. Christiania seemed to be a district that residents illegally occupied a place where rich nature remained.
I visited at 6:00 in the morning. I didn't see many people passing by, probably because it's the time when that kind of residents didn't like it. Yet the district had an air of alienness from ordinary Copenhagen just around the corner.
What I felt from the house design and disposition of houses was that it was a place where people, who weren't interested in anything other than their world, lived on their own. It was not a slum but an atmosphere where cluttered things were left. Though public paths passed, I was confused as to whether it was a private path in quite a few places. How to create a boundary between public and private territory was somewhat different. I felt like I have invaded someone's property without permission. An illegal occupation that squatters decide the place as they like it might generate such a state.
I liked the looseness of being unfettered, but I felt a little distant to those who were too addicted to their world.
Personal belongings were placed on both sides of the narrow public path, so I wondered if I should pass.
A firewood shelf was placed to fall down on the public path.
The public path created an atmosphere like a private property approach with the sense to locate the house and place the waste materials.
A hut that looks like a storage was placed facing the public path. Bicycles were also thrown out, but this way of placing was sometimes seen in Copenhagen, so is it a national character?
Perhaps because of my preconceived notions, the murals made me think that this was a place where hippie people lived.
A small shop-like building. The self-build exterior wall design created a free atmosphere. In ordinary Copenhagen were few buildings with this kind of design.
A chair was placed on the side of the public path as if it were placed in the garden of one's own house.
It's fun to have horses in town. Horses kept in the middle of a big city seemed to visualize the existence of free people, in both good and strange senses.
See ordinary Copenhagen on the other side of the canal from Christiania.
ご感想はこちらへ / Click here for your impressions
参考文献 / reference
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