シエラ・ネバダ・デ・サンタ・マルタ山脈の北斜面は、コギ族の暮らす区域。
The northern slopes of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Malta Mountains are the area where the Koguis live.
See Tabiaka village where I stayed. Grasslands spread around the village. The white pillar on the front is the gate to the village. Smoke of shifting cultivation rises on the slopes of distant mountains.
「あなたのスペイン語は下手だから、この先へ行く許可を与えられない。」スーパーイケメンで、ひときわ、身体の大きな副酋長が、白馬の上から言いました（原始的な社会では容姿や体躯が際立っていることが、特別なギフトとして、皆の上に立つ者にふさわしいのでしょう）。４日目の朝でした。理由は何でもよかったのです。
シエラ・ネバダ・デ・サンタ・マルタ山脈の北斜面、先住民コギ族の保護区の村タビアカでのこと。麓から1日半、最後の開拓者の家から７時間、体力を奪うような山道を何度も上り下りして着いた最初の集落。山奥のコギ族の集落まで数日の行程の許可を得るため、逗留していました。一度だけ、近くの集落に足を伸ばしたものの、半ば幽閉状態。1日目は少しあったコミュニケーションも、日毎に減り、見えない指示が村を覆っていました。退散を決め、小屋の外に、置き土産の折り紙を並べました。そして暫く。ちぎれた折り紙が投げ込まれ、子供たちが走り去ります。彼らの答えでした。
「閉じること」は、かすかな悲鳴であり、意志であり、力。タビアカ近くには国の小学校もあり、小屋からは、かすかにラジオのサルサも聞こえました。そういう文明の浸透に対して、７時間の距離や、昔ながらの生活、頑なな態度が必要だったのです。1991年のことでした。
そして、2008年。コロンビア政府が、子供の教育と接種のため、麓から、彼らとの接触ポイントの小学校までの、緊急用道路を開設。その先は、今まで通りの険しい山道ですが、Google Mapsで見ると、道路終点近くに位置し、僕が幽閉されていた集落は、忽然と消えていました。
"Your Spanish isn't good, so I can't permit you to go any further," said the deputy chief of super twink on the back of a white horse. It was the morning on the 4th day. It didn't matter what the reason was.
I was in the Koguis village, Tabiaca, on the northern slopes of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Malta Mountains. It was the first village after a １.5-day walk from the mountain foot and a 7-hour walk from the last pioneer's house, walking up and down the mountain path. I stayed there to get permission to go to the innermost village, half imprisoned except a short walk to a nearby village.
On the 1st day, I made a little communication with locals, but as the days went by, most came to avoid me. I decided to go away and put origamis as a gift outside the hut I stayed in. For a while, torn origamis were thrown into the hut, and children ran away. It was their answer.
"Closed community" was a faint scream, will, and power. Near Tabiaka was a small school, and I heard salsa at a faint sound. Seven hours of distance, traditional life, and a stubborn attitude were their way against the civilization. That was in 1991.
In 2008, the government built an emergency road from the mountain foot to the school as a contact point. It was for the education and vaccination of children. Beyond here, only a mountain path continues. Looking at Google Maps, the village that was located near the end of the road and where I was imprisoned disappeared unexpectedly.
See San Antonio, the neighboring village of Tabiaka, from the top of the hill.
The scenery of San Antonio village. The circular building is a residence. The square hipped roof is a ritual facility or a storage. The village had an open impression compared to Tabiaka.
The scenery of Tabiaka village in the morning.
The scenery of Tabiaka village. The square hut was a storage, and it was provided as a place to stay. The large circular hut behind it is a ritual facility, and the sound of magical prayer was sometimes leaked from it.
The scenery of Tabiaka village where I stayed.
The scenery of the village Tabiaka where I stayed. The white pillar on the left is the gate to the village.
Rocks were buried in a bush at the end of the grassland of the village. It was a holy place where the Koguis of Tabiaka prayed. Immediately after arriving in Tabiaka, they took me here, and I prayed together, kneeling and prostrating.
A bridge that crossed a clear stream. It was the entrance to Tabiaka, and was a short walk to the village.
ご感想はこちらへ / Click here for your impressions
もっと詳しく → 旅行の時間 - コギ族の集落（シエラ・ネバダ・デ・サンタ・マルタ、コロンビア）
When you want to know more → Time of Travel - Village of the Koguis (Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Colombia)
幽閉された集落の隣にあり、散策で訪れた集落サン・アントニオ / San Antonio village which was located next to the imprisoned village Tabiaka.
参考文献 / reference
"Dumingueka es el nuevo pueblo de los Kogui" (El tiempo 2008/07/18)
"旅のチカラ"（石井大五,新建築住宅特集2006年１月号,新建築社）
Wikipedia
写真の無断使用、転用はご遠慮下さい。/ Please do not use or upload our photos without permission.
