シエラ・ネバダ・デ・サンタ・マルタ山脈は、先住民の保護区域。
The Sierra Nevada de Santa Malta Mountains are an indigenous protected area.
See Nabusimake village as the center of the Arhuacos.
海からの距離と標高差の比で世界有数の険しさの山脈で、万年雪の最高峰、5775mのクリストバル・コロン山は、熱帯のカリブ海の岸から40キロ。その南斜面に暮らすのが先住民アルワコ族。標高2000mの中心集落ナブシマケは、彼らの言葉で「太陽の生まれるところ」を意味します。
森を抜けると、一面の牧草地で、馬、牛、羊、豚、鶏が、のびのびと放し飼い。その自由な空気を進むと、低い石垣に囲まれた集落が現れました。白い壁、わらぶき屋根の家が連なり、田舎らしい日常は反転し、静かな気高さが際立ちます。アルワコ族の精神的支柱となる地で、カトリック教会も撤退に追い込みました。
人物撮影禁止のため写っていませんが、アルワコ族が暮らしを営み、多くが、生成りの民族衣装と帽子に、文様を織り込んだ白地の２つのカバンを、肩から十字に掛けています。その生成りの白さが、彼らを無垢な存在に仕立て、ナブシマケをいっそう神々しくします。
ナブシマケから道なき道経由で、下界に戻る乗り合いトラックは、彼らが、市場に持って行く果物で満杯。アーティチョークのような果物を、プレゼントされました。皮をむくと白い果実が現れ、ミルクシャーベットのような甘く濃厚な味。最近、日本の高級フルーツ店で見かけるチェリモヤが、先住民と外の世界をつなぎ、共同体を支えていました。
The highest peak with a snowcap in The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta Mountains is Mt. Cristobal Colon 5775 m high, located about 40 km from the tropical Caribbean Sea. As for distance from the sea for elevation difference, it is one of the steepest areas in the world. The indigenous Arhuacos live on the southern slope. Their central village at an altitude of 2000 m is Nabushimake. It means "a place where the sun is born".
In the forest, a meadow came in. Horses, cows, sheeps, pigs, and chickens were free-range in a relieving environment. Beyond free country air, a village surrounded by low stone walls appeared. Thatched houses with white walls were lined up inside, and a quiet dignity stood out. It was suitable as a spiritual capital for the Arhuacos and had forced the Catholic church to withdraw.
To take the photo of locals was prohibited. In reality, the Arhuacos live, wearing an unbleached folk costume, a hat, and hanging two bags with patterns woven on a white background in a cross shape. Its whiteness made them innocent and Nabushimake more divine.
The shared truck, which went to the town through a trackless path was full of fruits to bring to the market. They gave me a fruit like an artichoke. When peeled, white fruit had a sweet and rich taste like milk sorbet. It was the cherimoya found in high-end fruit stores in Japan recently. It connected them with the outside world and supported their community.
See Nabushimake village from the top of the hill. Fields and meadows spread out in the forest, and in the center, surrounded by stone walls, houses stand densely.
See Nabushimake village beyond the pastures where livestock have been grazing.
See the gate to enter Nabushimake village. When I visited, the entrance fee was collected at the management office near the gate.
See the stone-paved square in Nabushimake village and the Bell Tower as a remnant of the time when Catholics on the left.
See Nabushimake village. The square hipped houses are lined up neatly, and the ground is covered with stones.
See a local house in Nabushimake village beyond the stone walls of the meadow.
After passing through the forest, the gate to the meadow beyond the grassland appears, and beyond the meadow, the houses of Nabushimake are seen.
ご感想はこちらへ / Click here for your impressions
もっと詳しく → 旅行の時間 - アルワコ族の集落（シエラ・ネバダ・デ・サンタ・マルタ、コロンビア）
When you want to know more → Time of Travel - Village of the Arhuacos (Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Colombia)
参考文献 / reference
"先住民が守る聖なる山、部外者を拒む巡礼の旅に同行した" (Gena Steffens + Stephen Ferry, ナショナルジオグラフィック日本版, 2019/12/22)
"Guia de relacionamiento y dialogo entre el sector minero-energetico y el pueblo Arhuaco" (Resguardo Indigena Arhuaco de la Sierra de la Nevada, Confederacion indigena Tyron, Organizacion del Pueblo Arhuaco, 2015)
"Arhuaco tribe asks Bogota to protect their lands from extractive activities" (EFE, La Preens Latina Media, 2021/11/09) "Arhuaco Universe" (Crispin Izquierdo Torres + Juan Bautista Villafana + Juan Marcos Perez + Manuel Chaparro + Karmen Perez + Norberto Torres + Otoniel Mejia Izquierdo + Jesus Izquierdo + Mauricio Sanchez, Organizacion Cultural del Caribe Colombiano) "El grupo indigena colombiano arhuaco reci- bio 500 hectareas para proteger la biodiversidad" (Romina Castagnino, Mongabay, 2017/05/04)
"The Arhuacos’ last stand in the heights of Sierra Nevada" (IWGIA, 2018/10/12)
Wikipedia
写真の無断使用、転用はご遠慮下さい。/ Please do not use or upload our photos without permission.
