015.青森 02.古川市場
015.Aomori city 02.Furukawa Market (Japan)
ごはんの入ったどんぶりを購入し、場内の店を回って仕入れたネタでつくる、自分だけのどんぶりが「のっけ丼」。その発祥の地が、青森のこの古川市場。
Nokke-don is a bowl topped with various raw fishes on rice. A visitor buys those around the shops, and eats at the rest area. Its birthplace is the Furukawa Market in Aomori.
Each shop in the market provides toppings of raw fish for Nokke-don.
戦後の闇市に遡る古川市場。長い奥行の場内に、水に濡れた３列の路地が伸び、両側に露台を並べた店が続きます。魚介類を扱う店がいちばん多く、他に八百屋などがちらほら。
豪雪の中、立ち寄ったのは、「のっけ丼」のため。ごはんとネタを購入したら、醤油とお茶が用意された休憩所でいただきます。ネタのほとんどが100円から300円。店により、同じ量でも微妙に値段が違い、衝動買いせず、一回りするのが得策。途中で、市場の皆さんと話するのも楽しい時間です。
最近、他所でも見掛けますが、さきがけがここで、青森の商工会議所による企画。2009年、中心市街地活性化策として立案され、食堂のなかった古川市場に白羽の矢が立ちました。大きな仕掛けを新設せず、市民向けの商品の脇に、小分けコーナーをつくるだけ。掛かった費用は、どんぶりと小分け用カップに、休憩所の整備というローコストで、魅力的な企画に仕立てた手腕に感心。数年で、古川市場を訪れる観光客の数は急増し、売上も倍増と話す受付のお兄さんもホクホク顔。
それが2011年のこと。2017年に訪れると、微妙に空気が変わっていました。以前は、店の露台の中心は市民向け商品だったのに、今は、のっけ丼のネタが中心。市民の市場に、申し訳なくお邪魔するのが、ローカル感があってよかったのに、観光客がメインターゲットになると、逆に物足りない。観光客は、結構、面倒。
Furukawa Market derives from the black market after the war. Three rows of alleys wet with water were lined with shops with a stand on both sides. Most of the shops dealt with fish and shellfish, and the rest was a greengrocer.
I came by because of the Nokke-don. After getting rice and raw fishes, a visitor eats it at the rest area that offers soy sauce and green tea. Most of the toppings cost 100 to 300 Japanese yen. Depending on the shop, the price may differ slightly even if the amount is the same, so it is better to go around first. It's also a fun time to talk with vendors.
Recently, other towns adopted this scheme. But the pioneer was here. The Chamber of Commerce in Aomori City planned it in 2009 to revitalize the downtown. They selected Furukawa Market since it had no cafeteria. Big gimmicks were not necessary. Shops only installed a topping corner beside the products for citizens. I was impressed by the skill of planning an attractive low-cost project. In a few years, tourists visiting here have skyrocketed.
That was in 2011. In 2017 when I visited again, the air changed slightly. Previously, a product for citizens was at the center of the stand. Now the toppings for the Nokke-don were in the center. It had been nice to visit the market for citizens. Now when a tourist was the main target, it was unsatisfactory. Tourists are tiresome.
See Furukawa Market in the middle of winter. To be precise, it is called the Aomori Gyosai Center. The market is in the interior of a big building
Furukawa Market with small shops is lined up inside the building
Furukawa Market with small shops is lined up inside the building
A signboards is hung at shops that sell toppings for the Nokke-don.
The owner puts the toppings I purchased on top of the rice.
The owner puts the toppings I purchased on top of the rice.
Most of them are fish shops, but one of them sells beanbags. It's better not to put it on the Nokke-don and eat it.
Customers who have purchased the Nokke-don eat on a chair seat set up between the shops.
The Nokke-don was completed after going around many shops. Each item looks cheap, but when adding all toppings, it was more expensive than I imagined.
ご感想はこちらへ / Click here for your impressions
もっと詳しく → 旅行の時間 - 青森の市場：古川市場とのっけ丼（青森、青森、日本）
When you want to know more → Time of Travel - Public Market in Aomori City :
Furukawa Public Market and Nokke-don Bowl
(Aomori city, Aomori, Japan)
参考文献 / reference
写真の無断使用、転用はご遠慮下さい。/ Please do not use or upload our photos without permission.
