024.ビンタン島 04.センガラン
024.Pulau Bintan 04.Sengarang (Indonesia)
中国系コミュニティーの民度の高さと、それとは裏表の部外者への閉鎖性は、水上集落でも変わらないようです。中国系水上集落のセンガランに足を踏み入れたとき、集落というより、町に来たように感じました。
The high degree of civility of the Chinese community and its closed nature toward outsiders seems to be the same in their floating villages. When I visited in the Chinese floating village of Sengarang, I felt as if I had been not in a village but in a town.
Houses were attached to both sides of a concrete pier.
最初の驚きは、コンクリートの桟橋による道のネットワーク。パッと見には、ふつうの道路に見えますが、水中に打ち込んだコンクリートの柱脚が支える立派な桟橋。インフラをきちんと整備できることが、コミュニティーの力。
岸の入口からずっと歩き、別の入口から来た「道」とぶつかるあたりには、商店が固まっています。商店街がこんなところにあるなんてと感激するのは、水上集落に対する偏見？。建て込んだ一郭は、陸の小さな市場の辻に迷い込んだ気分。さらに、インターネットカフェを発見。水上集落に！です。コンピューターゲームに熱中している子供がいるのは、陸も水の上も同じでした。
「道」の途中には、屋根付きのコモンテラス。何組かの老人が麻雀をしているのが、イカすコミュニティー風景に見えたので、遠くからパチリ、そして、近付いて、パチリとしようとしたその時、中の一人が形相を変えて、両腕で大きく「×」と、ジェスチャーしました。他所者に対する不快感と拒否感で一杯の目でした。そう、この老人に限らず、皆、眼差しが冷たいのです。すれ違う人に挨拶しても、無視か、冷たい会釈。勝手に入って行った自分に非があるのは明らかですが、インドネシア系やマレー系の水上集落と比べると違いを感じます。
そこには、移民であること、陸ではない水上に住むこと、インドネシアに翻弄された中国系住民の歴史などが、ないまぜになり、そして、何よりも、中国系であることの誇りがあるに違いありません。彼らの住居は、タンジュン・ピナンの下町の中国人街と同じように、軒近くに、日本のうだつに似たカーブ状の板を出しています。センガランに彼らが来たのは、1740年頃。中国人の海外移民のもっとも早い例の一つらしいですが、それだけの時間を経てもなお、彼らの出自、中国南部の住居形式を受け継いでいることに、誇りが伺えます。
そして、水上集落入口の岸辺には、道教寺院が立ち、線香が耐えません。それもまた、自分たちの由緒を正統化する大事な証。
道、商店街、インタネットカフェ、共有テラス、道教寺院、そして、刺すような視線。センガランは、水上集落が、中国系コミュニティーの手に掛かると、都市的な集落になるという興味深い場所。
同じ地域の水上集落でも、暮らす人の意識や民族性の違いで、コミュニティーの空気にも景色にも、差が生まれます。３つの異なる民族の水上集落を訪ねて、コミュニティーのキーワードが人ということを実感しました。
The first surprise was the network of concrete paths. At first glance, those looked like an ordinary streets but were magnificent piers supported by concrete pillars driven into the water. The ability to properly maintain infrastructure showed the power of the community.
As walking down the path from the shore, another path crossed. There were shops clustered around the area. It would be a prejudice against floating villages that I was excited to find a shopping street there?. I felt as if I had wandered into the corner of a small market on land. Furthermore, I discovered an internet cafe. It existed in a floating village!. Children were passionate about computer games, whether they lived on land or in the water.
In the middle of the path was a common terrace with a roof. I found several groups of aged residents playing mahjong. It looked like a nice community scene. So, after I took their pictures from a distance, I approached there. Then, one of them changed his appearance and made a big "x" gesture with both arms. His eyes were full of discomfort and rejection towards an outsider. Yes, not only this aged man but also everyone else were cold. When I greeted the residents I passed by, they either ignored me or gave me a glacial nod. Their attitude was natural since I entered without permission, but I felt a difference from Indonesian or Malay floating villages.
The reason for their attitude must be due to the history of being an immigrant, living on water instead of on land, the history of Chinese people being at the mercy of Indonesia, and above all, a sense of pride in being Chinese. Their houses had curved side walls near the eaves, similarly to the Chinatown of Downtown Tanjung Pinang. They immigrated to Sengarang around 1740. It is said to be one of the earliest examples of Chinese immigrants overseas, and even after so much time, they showed their pride in continuing to inherit the housing style of southern China as their origin.
On the shore near the entrance to the village on the water was a Taoist temple, and the incense sticks were always burnt. That is also a significant proof of legitimizing their identity.
Sengarang was an interesting place to know that the Chinese community turned even a floating village into an urban community.
Even in floating villages in the same region, differences in the community atmosphere and landscape occurred due to differences in their views and ethnicity of the residents. By visiting floating villages of three different ethnic groups, I realized that the key word for a community was people.
Many houses had a terrace between the concrete pier and the house.
Many houses have curved side walls, a style that originated in southern China. Similarly to other floating villages on Pulau Bintan (Bintan Island), each house had a terrace between the house and the pier. Most terraces and houses are built of wood.
See a houses with curved side walls as a style that originated in southern China. It still maintained the old style of double-hung windows and clapboard walls, but the gable side was covered with metal plates.
See a houses with curved side walls as a style that originated in southern China. This house was finished with clapboard walls on the gable side.
This houses had curved side walls, but the exterior wall was finished with sheet and the walls under the eaves were painted colorfully. The vivid color was a fusion with local taste.
See the state between houses.
Shops were clustered around the intersection of the pier paths. Residents were playing mahjong on a common terrace.
See a part of the shopping street.
See the Internet cafe in the shopping street.
The tall building on the right hand of the concrete pier displayed a church sign.
See the gate of a Taoist temple on the land side of the village.
See theTaoist temple on the land side of the village.
Incense sticks were always burnt in Taoist temples.
ご感想はこちらへ / Click here for your impressions
もっと詳しく → ビンタン島の水上集落 - 2：センガラン（ビンタン島、インドネシア）
When you want to know more → Villages on the water in Pulau Bintan - 2 : Senggarang (Pulau Bintan, Indonesia)
参考文献 / reference
Wikipedia
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